newbie, battery sizing question

11 Posts
Dec 26, 2008 11:09 pm
newbie, battery sizing question

I've been reading the Photovoltaics-Design and Installation Manual to learn more about solar power.  One thing I don't understand is the method used to determine battery sizing.  When determining the load it is done by including the "use days/wk"/"7 days". 
If, for example, I use a light one day a week the factor is 1/7.  However, does that mean on that one day I use the light I might completely drain the battery to the discharge limit?
I can understand this technique might work on an "average" day, but what about the day when all your loads are being turned on and you significantly exceed this value? 
Would it be better to size the battery based on the maximum load (maximum Watt hours)?

Thanks for any guidance 
 
Dec 27, 2008 06:41 am
Re: newbie, battery sizing question

Thank you Brian. You have made a good point. Often times I have simply wrote that one should "take the electric power needs over a 24 hour period" when determining a battery bank size. That is some what vague.

(Please keep in mind that I have kept such things as budget restraints out of the equations. I feel that to be a personal matter for the individual to compute.)

More precisely, one should sum up the electric power needs over a 24 hour period, worst case scenario. If it is known that there will be a day when electric power usage is going to be higher than average over the winter months, then use that days electric power needs. (Unless one lives on the equator of course.) I use the winter months because these days are shorter and the occurrence of inclement wheather is more predominate.
Of course this is mainly all about sizing an "offgrid" battery bank with a stand alone PV system, where a minimum of backup generator usage is desired.
Even with this, there could be weeks during the winter months that a stand alone PV battery charging system just can't keep a battery bank fully charged no matter how big the PV array is.

The multiplying factor of 5 that I use is synonymous with 20%. 20% of 100 is 5.
For Example: if after summing up the electric power needs over a 24 hour period, worse case scenario, the total is 1.5 kW h's (kiloWatthour's) then the math is as follows -
1.5 kW h's X 1000 = 1500 watt hours
1500 watt hours / 12 (nominal battery voltage) = 125 amp hours, bare minimum.
125 amp hours X 5 = 625 amp hours at 12 volts nominal.
It always best to round up any fractional numbers to the next highest whole number. Even in the case of 1.5 kW h's. Of course this translates into higher cost $ as well (sorry, couldn't help myself.)
What that factor of 5, that I use, does is help to keep the battery within the top 20% of full charge. This is what is known as shallow cycling, which helps with having an overall longer battery life. It also will help give several days of power with little to no sunshine (in a stand alone PV system.)
Any type of re-chargable battery is made with a predetermined number of cycles starting with a full 100% charge, then down to a 100% discharge, then back to 100% re-charged, that is one full cycle. Treating a battery this way though will mean having to replace it, a lot, sooner than if one were to increase the size of the battery bank and shallow cycle it.

All of this is concerning discharging a battery bank but just as important if not more so is recharging it. If it is at all possible, what is taken from a battery bank should be replaced ASAP. This too helps the over all life span of the battery. Nothing will ruin a battery faster than sitting there totally discharged. With the exception maybe of a Ni Fe.
http://www.beutilityfree.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=44&Itemid=129

After all is said and done, when sizing a battery bank, its better to error too big! Than to error too small.
 
Dec 27, 2008 07:33 am
Re: newbie, battery sizing question

One of the things that helped me to understand rechargeable batteries was the understanding of the concept that batteries do not store electricity. They do however convert electric energy into a chemical energy and store that until such times as electric energy is "called" for then it converts it back from chemical energy. For a price. One can never fully recover absolute 100% of the electric power stored as chemical power into a battery from that battery.

Another thing was/is reading and comparing battery manufactures spec. sheets. If they don't make a spec. sheet that I can compare to other manufactures batteries, then I don't even consider their product. They could lay claim to have the greatest battery every in the world but if they don't print a spec. sheet that I can use to compare with, they don't exist. Its that simple.

Cost is always an issue. I learned the hard to stay away from those "big box" stores and the marine deep cycle batteries. When it come to a stand alone PV system, those batteries are not worth it. Two - 6 volt golf cart batteries are better than any, one - 12 volt marine deep cycle battery even though the cost of 2 golf cart batteries is extremely higher. Over the "long haul" the golf cart batteries will last longer if treated right. Those so called marine deep cycles batteries are really not true deep cycle. They are in fact a cranking battery with a really high cranking reserve. Not the same thing. It has to do with the way the plates inside are formed.

Search the internet. Learn as much as you can about batteries. What could it hurt? Being the informed buyer is better than feeling like you've been ripped off. Right? Who knows, you might be the inventor of an even better battery.

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Biographies/VoltaBio.htm

http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/electromag/electricity/batteries/index.html
 
11 Posts
Dec 27, 2008 09:38 pm
Re: newbie, battery sizing question

Thanks to you both for the information.  I'll continue researching and reading.
 

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