Dec 26, 2008 08:16 am
Re: Wiring solar panels together
" I had to wire in er thir 24 volt setup to get what was needed for the 12 volt charge."
You might have what is known as a "cold" solder joint. It looks like its made right but it could be that it doesn't have sufficient continuity, or one or more diodes have ruptured. Do you have a way to check the diodes?
If it were me, I would start back at the beginning, making sure I didn't miss anything.
Is your electric meter set properly to read the voltage of direct current and is it working properly? Good battery in meter? Probe leads in the correct holes?
Have you checked each PV modules output individually, no wire, no (cold) solder joints, just using your electric meters probes right to the negative and positive terminals in the J-box? in bright, midday sunshine with the PV module aimed at the sun? This will give you clue as to the condition of the diodes. Compare the oreintation of the diodes in all four PV modules, check that all of the diodes are oriented the same from module to module. Check for any diodes that might be discolored in any way.
Ok, so now we know your PV battery charging system is 12 vdc nominal. We know that Kyocera KC130TM PV modules are considered to be 12 vdc nominal output.
So, speaking simply, there should be four negative wires, one from each modules negative, and four positive wires, one from each positive, for a total of 8 wires.
Ideally there would be a combiner box that would bring all 4 of the negative wires together as one, and it would bring all 4 of the positive wires together as one while fusing each positive individually first. Then we would leave the combiner box with one negative and one positive and go to the charge controller.
If all of the diodes are in correct working order and all of the modules are producing full or near full open circuit voltage, as checked in dividually, and there are no "cold" solder loints and no blown fuses in the combiner box, you should have 520 watts at 12 vdc nominal at the charge controller.