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Dankoff Solarforce 3020-115V Ac Surface Pump
|Item code||Brand name||Model number|
|DAKSF-3020-115||Dankoff Solar Pumps||3020-115|
The surge tank is included with the pump.
Piston Pump for Shallow Wells
Use Solar-Electric Power for water lift or pressurizing from shallow water sources. Provides as much as 5600 Gallons per day (21,000 ltrs.) pushing as high as 230 Feet (70m) or 100 PSI (7 kg/sq. cm)
Solar Force Piston Pump draws water from a shallow well, spring, pond, river or tank. It can push water uphill and over long distances for home, village, irrigation or livestock uses. It can use power directly from a photovoltaic array, or from storage batteries, to fill a storage tank or to pressurize water.
Solar Force is . . .
Ultra-Efficient: Uses less power than ANY other pump in its range
Economical: Reduces power system cost by 25-75% compared to centrifugal or AC pumps
Solar-Direct Application: Starts pumping in low light conditions
Pressurizing Application: DC version is most efficient. AC version uses a low-surge PM motor that greatly reduces starting surge, inverter size, and wire size requirements (when compared to conventional AC pumps).
Rugged and Reliable: Proven design with a 20-year life expectancy. Simple to maintain with common tools (2-6 yr. maintenance interval)
Good Tolerance for Dirt and Dry Run
Mechanical Drive allows engine or hand-lever backup
Illustrated Instruction Manual makes it easy for anyone to install and service, with no previous experience.
"We have one pump that serves a community of 30 people and visitors. It more than adequately meets our needs." Brother Philip, Christ in the Desert Monastary, Abiquiu, New Mexico
"I want to tell you how happy I am with our Solar Force Piston Pump. What a workhorse! Gallon for gallon, the price of the pump is well worth it in quality and performance." R.S., Molokai, Hawaii
"Nothing will pump more water per watt than the Solar Force -- Nothing! And, it's built like a tank. I've seen similar pumps 50 years old, still working." Larry Elliot, Solar Tech, Bend, Oregon
Reading the Chart
- Total Lift = Vertical Distance from surface of the water source to the pipe outlet or top of storage tank
- Model Designation: V=Voltage, B=Battery Model, PV=PV Array-Direct Model
- 12, 24, 48, 90 VDC
Note: PV-Direct full working voltage is typically 20% higher than nominal (example: 29 Volts for a 24V system)
- 115V or 230V AC, 50-60Hz
25 vertical feet (7.6m) at sea level. Subtract 1 foot for every 1000 ft. elevation (1m for every 1000m). Suction capacity may be further limited by intake pipe friction or gasses in water. Intake piping should be minimum 1 inch (3010, 3020 models) or minimum 1 1/4 inch (3040). For best reliability, place the pump as close to the water source as possible.
- Cast iron body
- Brass cylinder and valve seats
- Leather cup piston seals
- Neoprene valve seals
- Oil-bath crankcase with PTFE oil additive
- Gear (timing) belt drive on PV models
- Standard V-belt on B models
- Pressure relief valve
- Permanent Magnet DC Motor
- Solar-Direct Systems: Chart indicates power (watts) required at the pump. The rated power of the PV array must exceed this number by 20% or more. A pump controller (linear current booster) is required for the pump to start and run in varying light conditions. A solar tracker may be used to increase daily yield (40-55% in summer).
- Pressurizing Systems: Battery power system, pressure switch, and pressure tank of minimum 60 gallon (230 l) size (captive-air tank, available locally)
- Foot valve (if pump is placed higher than water source)
- Foot Valve FV-3000 (1-1/4 inch) required if pump is placed higher than water source
- Pressure Switch: Heavy Duty DC rated, for pressurizing systems
- Surge Tank: Absorbs pulsation if long piping is required between pump outlet and tank (Included with PV models)
- Seal & Gasket Set : Spare gaskets, rod and valve seals, two sets of piston seals, and a belt
- Long-Term Parts Kit: The above, plus a second belt, motor brushes, cylinder sleeve, 2 oil changes
- Easy Installation Kit includes: Pressure Switch, Pressure Gauge, Check , Drain & Shut-Off Valves, & Tank Tee (manifold)
- Intake: 1 1/4 inch female pipe thread
- Outlet: 1 inch female pipe thread
- 22 X 13 X 16 in. High (56 X 33 X 41 cm)
- With Surge Tank, 26 in. High (60 cm)
- Weight, max. 80 lbs (36 kg) (Shipped in 2 or 3 parcels)
- 2 years against defects in materials and workmanship
|Surface Pumps Comparison|
|Surface pumps for lifting and/or pressurizing water / 1 PSI = 2.307 ft. of|
|Surface Pumps||Min Lift (ft)||Max Lift (ft)||Min Lift (PSI)||Max Lift (PSI)||Min GPM||Max GPM||Pump Type||Dirt Tolerant||Filtration Required||Dry-run Tolerant|
Solar Slowpumps 15xxx*
|0||440||0||191||0.4||4||rotary vane||N||10 mic||N|
Solar Slowpumps 14xx and 26xx
|160||440||69||191||1||4||rotary vane||N||10 mic||N|
Flowlight Booster Pumps 16xxx**
|69||150||30||65||3||4||rotary vane||N||10 mic||N|
SunCentric Pumps 7xxx
SolarForce PistonPumps 30xx
Solaram Pumps 8xxx
*formerly 13xx and 25xx
Here are some tips from the altE staff
- Do I really need a pump controller?
- In the most basic sense, no. But for a variety of reasons, including the appropriate controller in your system makes for a better, longer lasting pumping system. A key feature to most pump controllers is what is called a linear current booster, or LCB. LCBs improve the performance of DC pumps by adjusting the voltage and current to increase the output in low light conditions, like mornings and evenings, and on cloudy days. But controllers do more than that. They reduce arcing between the brushes and the motor, significantly extending the life of the pump. Controllers also have terminals for a switch, like a float switch or pressure switch. Some controllers come with manual on/off switches, as well as internal fuses to protect against shorts. Finally, depending on the controller, they have low water probes, hi/low voltage protection, and other features. It is for all of these reasons that a pump controller is highly recommended.
- Can I use a float switch without a pump control box?
- Technically, yes. But because of the usual limitations, it isn't recommended. If one were to connect a float switch inline with the electrical circuit for the system, the wires in that switch would be carrying the current for the system. For systems with longer wire runs, comparatively larger wire is needed to reduce power losses. But the wire for a float switch isn't sized to carry large current loads. If one were to connect a float switch inline with the electrical circuit of a long cable run, the wires from the float switch would be insufficient handle the current and would result in significant power loss at best and melted cable insulation (and possibly a fire hazard) at worst. The contacts on the switch itself - what opens and closes the electrical circuit - would wear out sooner. Pump controllers typically have terminals for an electric switch (usually a float, pressure or dry run switch) that is a relay for the switch. As such, it makes it possible for the switch to function without carrying all the current in the system. This is why the wires for the switches are so small.
- What if I just don't want, or can't, use a pump controller, but I want to use a float switch?
- In this case you would have two options. First, if you can reduce the length of the float switch cable to a couple of feet, then probably the loss in the line wouldn't be too significant. But this will vary from one system to the next, and consulting a sales tech is recommended. The second option you have is to use a high current float switch. We have one that is designed for up to 25 amps. However, it contains mercury and is not recommended for drinking water.
- If I want to make the wire longer on my float switch, can I do that?
- Yes, if you are using a control box. The length will vary from one switch to the next, but for many switches you can extend the length up to 1000 feet and for some up to 2000 feet. On the other hand, lengthy runs usually means digging a trench to protect the cable from critters and exposure to weather. To avoid that challenge, one alternative is to use a combination pressure switch and float valve. When connected to a pump controller, a pressure switch will turn a pump on and off based on the pressure it senses in the water line. When the pressure rises, the switch turns the pump off, and when the pressure drops, the switch turns the pump on. A float valve (aka ball valve) is used when one is filling a water tank and will open and close the water line based on the water level of the tank.
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