Stephen Brown's posts

Hi David

My charge controller is a Blue Sky 3024i. Placement for the existing panel is on the fwd. cabin top, approximately 21' in wire cable distance (12awg) to the mppt. I am planning to install a second  pv panel attached to the stern rail, also approximately 21' in wire cable length from the mppt. I was thinking I could connect both cables together at the mppt.

I live aboard a sailboat, it is on a mooring, it swings 360 degrees around the mooring twice daily with the tides. My masts, 65' and 40' above deck (it's a katch rig) aloft and cast shadows over all of the decks thus shadows appear over the pv panel several times within an hour. Because placement of two panels (I currently employ one 130 watt KC panel)(I want to add another panel) and will each have different shadows at the same time, or one may have no shadow, the other with a shadow, I didn't plan on a combiner, or any type of isolation between the two panels,  both directly wired to the mppt. Question: If one can understand my situation here, how should I wire to the charger? How would you do it given the unusual sunlight exposures unevenly?

I don't own the land version but have instead the marine Air-X version. I don't think there is much difference except for some non-corrosive metals used in the marine type. The book said, if memory is correct, to expect more than 5 years, and likely to go 10 or more. I see quite a few older air-x units installed aboard sailboats that are still working fine. I use my Air-X to keep a single group 27 battery topped off for use of the bow thruster on my sailboat.

I guess based on the posters post that inverters can be had cheaper if not rated marine use. My engine room, and it is a true walk-in engine room, there is no, or little to no, saltwater environment, it's pretty dry in there and nothing has ever seemed to corrode. Ventilation is the contact to the outside and still not a problem for me, further are even better and sealed compartments that would be even better locations for a charge controller.

Seems a lot of trouble to save a few buck, cost-prohibitive...if you want AC, bite the bullet and buy what will stand up to your needs. I have a used 10 year old Heart Freedom 25 that works perfectly fine for $125

Also should be noted, In the US, ABYC standards mandate NEGATIVE GROUND systems only.

Thank you Dale and the others for their response.......My mentality varies, but I do want true freedom, at least as much as I can grab!

Wind alternatives are a disappointment, an overall consensus, not just here but from several sailing forums.

I will plan to develop a larger battery bank and employ three more 130W PV panels as it has become clear this is the best alternative, alternative to a diesel generator!

Evergreen..........I also have the same PV panel, originally used a standard type charge controller then switched to the MPPT type controller and..WHAT a difference...batteries charge faster....it's the way to go.....good luck.

Thanks for your reply.....I live on a bit larger boat, a 43' Gulfstar ketch, and room for life aboard is marginal but manageable. I have lived aboard smaller sailboats and at that time seemed OK...now I need more room, comfort........Anyway, I'm looking to be as independent from an umbilical as possible and hope to cut that it at some point soon!

I'm trying to employ systems that will live twenty years +, as this is the amount of time I expect to be actively alive.

The Mppt charge controller I have is not very expensive really, under $300, there is a definite response from it, at least as claimed, a 30% increase in output to the bank, very worth-it to employ in a PV system, marine wind generators are worthless. My 2006 Air-X is devoted to charge a single grp-27 battery for my bow thruster, if the wind blows enough, and over 20 knots!

While PV panels and controller have evolved quite well to date, the wind has more to offer in way of electrical output based on size.....as it is, the technology for wind in smaller units suggests that they are as efficient as can be possible and we know that we can't get blood from a stone! It is what it may be, without much further development..............

I live aboard a sailboat and spend half the year dockside and the other half on a mooring. While on the mooring, I want to be able to run my Adler Barbour 12-V refrigerator, 24-7. Also, I need to run a few 12-V systems, mostly evening such as a few lights, domestic water pump, etc,.

My cabin lights are 5w energy efficient neon type so no loss there, the microwave draws 800 watts off the inverter 5 minutes on average and washing dishes runs the water pump maybe 5 minutes. The big demand is refrigeration.

I live in the northeast US, I have three 185 AH Rolls 4-D bats...Charging is from a single 130 watt PV with mppt charge controller.

What I'd like to know may only be gained from those who have a similar situation and know what really works, "tried and true" the math doesn't always work!

Anyone out there have knowledge on what works?

Aboard my sailboat I have one 130W PV panel and three Rolls 4-D batteries, 185 AH each. I may add another 130W PV panel. What size amp MPPT charge controller should I use?

I also have dropping voltage from my single 130 watt Kyocera pv panel installed aboard my sailboat.

Yesterday I had it connected up for the first time ( wired 12 ga. wire direct from pv panel to SunSaver 10 then wired direct to two Rolls 4-D batteries. Voltage within a couple of hours was up to 14+ during mostly hazy and diminishing sunlight.

Today, a bright and sunny day, pv panel aimed, it will not get past 13.3 volts.

With the pv panel wires open, I see 20.9 volts, and load at 13.3

Did I damage my panel when I started my diesel engine last night? Did I run voltage from my alternator (14. back into the pv panel and ruin it?