Jim Case's posts

Posted by Jim Case on Mar 24, 2011 06:13 pm

#1 -  Renewable Energy > For Sale > FOR SALE! Trace SW4024 and T240 conversion module.
Trace SW 4024 Solar Inverter. 4000 watt, 24 volt DC solar inverter with built in battery charger. This unit is designed for an off grid solar system and has a charger built in to charge a battery bank from the grid, if available, or a generator, as well as the charge controller from the solar array and/or wind generator if applicable. It is a 120VAC output inverter that I upgraded to a 240VAC grid tie inverter a few years ago. I also have a Trace T-240 phase converter (conversion module with disconnect) that will work in tandem with this inverter to turn 25amps. 120VAC into 240VAC to run a load such as a well pump. The T240 is optional at $250.00. This is a great stand alone system for applications that are remote and not tied into the power grid. Since it has a charger built in you can use a small generator to charge the battery bank in times of extended cloud cover or no wind. I am now connected to the grid and had to have a grid compliant Inverter to comply with all of the net metering issues you have to do to do that. Still a great machine for someone that is going to "stay" off the grid in like a cabin, RV or small house. I have all of the books and manuals. The new ones are around $2500.00-$3000.00ish. It is 12 years old but has been out of service for 3 years and has been stored in my bed room closet. Some times you just have to let go of old friends especially if there is someone out ther that can utilize a piece of equipment like this and I can use the room in my closet, LOL. Pics, info. and phone # on request. May God bless. Jim C.

Posted by Jim Case on Mar 30, 2010 04:41 pm

#2 -  Renewable Energy > RE General Discussion > Re: Solar Thermal Hot Water and Cold Air Return Heat Exchanger
Hi Alan,
     I have hade some experience with that type of hydronic system, You are right in your consideration of slowing the air down.  The return air on most furnaces are sized about 10x25 and putting a coil in that small space would slow things down a bit.  Secondly the filtration system is usually right where the R/A drop hooks up to the furnace so if you put the coil upstream from that it will clog up in short order.  The best approach is to put a hydronic coil above the A coil in the plenum and set it up on a 2 stage temp. controller so the solar and furnace do not run at the same time.  you would also require zone valves to direct the hot water from the panels to the water heater and to the heating coil on a priorty basis, with hot water first then space heating after that has reached temperature.  first determine how long it takes to make the hot water, if it takes most of the day you are not going to benifit from the expense to do all of this unless you add the appropriate no. of panels.  another consideration is the blower size.  There is a lot more I need to know in order to design a system, furn make, model, or gas, elec., your location and solar zone, etc. e.mail me at oltoby58 @ yahoo.com and we can chat about this.
Jim C.

Posted by Jim Case on Jan 2, 2009 02:02 pm

#3 -  Renewable Energy > Technical Discussion: Other > Re: Newbie: how to wire panel to battery to appliance, litterally
     John has most of the installation correct.  I would start here.  First install the panel facing south using a compass and tilted at about 45 degrees or so.  I would use a 3 wire 14 guage sunlight resistant extention cord (available at any harware store>HWS).  3 wire so you can use the green wire to ground the panel using a ground rod.  Use the black wire as your positive(+) and white as your negative(-). (most 12 volt systems are wired with black as - and red as +) so dont get them mixed up. Or to avoid any confusion you can us a red magic marker to color the white wire red and go back to the red + and black -.  Run the wire from the panel to the charge controller and hook it up as shown in the instructions from the controller and panel. Wire from the controller to the battery and install a 5 amp automotive fuse holder, (but do not put the fuse in untill you are done), to the + lead using a butt connector then to the battery using a ring tongue connector (available at a auto parts store). Hook up the - wire to the battery - post in the same manner (no fuse here). You will also need a crimping tool but they dont cost much and the counter man can help you pick out the right tool and connectors if you take the battery and wire with you).  Next run the wires to a "handi box" (HWS) using romex connectors for the wire entry and exit thru the box and put your switch in breaking the + wires at the switch. Next run to the light and hook up the + to + and the - to -.  I woud do away with the cig lighter plug in and wire it direct to the light using butt connectors. Put in a ground rod as close to the charge control as you can get using a hammer to drive it into the ground and run a # 6 bare solid copper wire from the rod lug to the controller and ground the panel and the controller to earth ground.>HWS Put the fuse into the holder and turn on the light switch. WOO HOO!!  If you need a wiring diagram or have any questions contact me at oltoby @ sbcglobal.net.
Jim C.

Posted by Jim Case on Apr 27, 2008 12:32 pm

#4 -  Renewable Energy > Technical Discussion: Other > Re: Killed my Shurflo 2088 surface pump in 3 days
If it was me, I would put a voltage sensing relay (designed for your pumps voltage requirements) in line between the solar panel and and the pump so that the pump can only come on when the voltage comes up to the desired voltage.

Posted by Jim Case on Mar 22, 2008 11:35 am

#5 -  Renewable Energy > RE General Discussion > Re: PLEASE HELP ME , I am in need of education ASAP ! ! !
     The location of the property you have chosen is critical in the decision to utilise wind as your energy source.  Where in Mo. are you located?  If you go to alternativeenergy.com you can find my page (look up Jim C) and sign me up on your friends list after you join the site.  We can private message on that site so that we can discuss what it is you are trying to achieve.  I live about 25 miles from St. Louis and have worked in the alt.energy, heating and cooling and electrical contracting field for about 10 years and I can help you with the questions you have about design and application of wind and solar.  DO NOT BUILD A HOUSE UNTILL YOU DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!  Build the wrong house and you are throwing all of the money you spend on alt.energy, down the drain!  There is a lot to this if you want to do it right and you only get one chance to do it.  I look forward to hearing from you.
Jim C.   oltoby @ sbcglobal.net

Posted by Jim Case on Feb 17, 2008 10:22 am

#6 -  Renewable Energy > Technical Discussion: Other > Re: Solar Powered DC Water Pump
Wow, assuming you can get 7 hours of sun light a day from solar you would need a bunch!  10,000 gallons a day would work out to about 24 gallons per min. X 60 Min's X 7 hours, a monumental task for a solar array.  I would consider a undershot water wheel driven by the river current hooked to a pump. You could use a stationary wheel or a floating platform (boat - with 2 paddle wheels)and a belt or gear drive pump. Since the water wheel will run 24/7 you would only need a pump that delivers about 7 gal. per min.  I have a rough sketch of a similar arrangement for electrical generation if you visit alternativeenergy.com and look up my profile, we can get in touch and email each other.  Look under Jim c. Look for the solar powered canoe in pictures to find me.
Jim C.

Posted by Jim Case on Feb 15, 2008 09:26 am

#7 -  Renewable Energy > Technical Discussion: Other > Re: Off-grid cabin shower
Everything sounds ok for the pump and battery hookup but I would be carefull about the tankless water heater because of the low capacity of the rv pump (gallons per min.) I would consider a RV water heater instead.  They are just about as efficient and volume is not a problem.  You can install them thru the wall just about any where so you should be able to install it near the shower - like under a bathroom vanity.
Jim C.

Posted by Jim Case on Jan 30, 2008 10:20 am

#8 -  Renewable Energy > Technical Discussion: Other > Re: Ice free water
I think that the geothermal guys are on to something here but I would go about it in a completely diffrent way.  1) I would drill a well as deep as practical. 2) I would install 3" schedule 40 pipe to the bottom of the well with a end cap. 4) I would also run 3/8" or 1/2" copper or plastic tubing (air pipe) to the bottom of the well pipe and out a exit tee fitting at the top of the well pipe. 5) At the tee I would enter the bottom of the tank with the 3" pipe at 90* thru a bolt on manifold (toilet flange)and run the pipe half way to the center of the stock tank (6 I would install a small 12V dc air pump or compressor to the air pipe and connect that to a battery bank and appropriate solar array all to be controlled by a thermostat and a SPDT switch so you could use it in any weather as an areator.
     The air would be the motor that drives (circulates) the warmed water and the air would also bubble into the tank to keep the surface from freezing. The air pump would not pull much amperage so the array and battery bank would not have to be excessively large.
     I have a drawing of this system as I have been working on this for a while and If you e-mail me I will be glad to send it to you  -  oltoby @ sbcglobal.net  - please put ice free water in the subject line.
Jim C.

Posted by Jim Case on Dec 28, 2007 12:05 pm

#9 -  Renewable Energy > Technical Discussion: Other > Re: Solar Powered watering system
WooHoo, 1/2 mile away?  Wow, I dont think my 5.5hp gas Honda trash pump would push water that far! I think I would be considering a well and a in well pump with a mppt pump control and timer.

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