Jack Spamless's posts

Thank you, Dave.
I will check out those other companies and see if I can't strike a deal. . .

First Solar is the one I was able to get info from.  The specs are the same - 20-22 year rated 80% output.
First Solar has a recycling program in place.
The panels are about 77Watts/ea - about 33VDC open.
I contacted Solar City and First Solar directly.  First Solar said I had to contact Solar City directly, that they didn't work directly with businesses or consumers.
Solar City said they don't do Off-grid projects, and the grid-tie projects they do are only if it's in the try-states of OR, CA or AZ. (Even if I agreed to drive down there from WA and pick up the 50+ panels myself...)

Somebody, SOMEwhere wants to sell me CdTe panels. . .  I just have to find them. . .

A $1.00/Watt vs $4.00/Watt with virtually the same specs??? . .  Ya - I'm all over that. . .

I'm not sure I saw it in the description, but exactly what kind of vending machine?. . .  Is this a Coke-cola refrigerated machine, or just dry goods?. . .

Cadmium Teluride Solar Panels -
Does anyone know where I can get CdTe Solar Panels?  I found a company that has them, but for some insane reason they wont sell them outside Oregon, California or Arizona. . .
Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Cadmium Teluride Solar Panels -
Does anyone know where I can get CdTe Solar Panels?  I found a company that has them, but for some insane reason they wont sell them outside Oregon, California or Arizona. . .
Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Thomas.  Here's a little more information. . .

Mounting an "awning" on the south wall would be too low - the sun would be blocked by the 100' trees in the winter. . . just. . . about 3+ months.  My best chance is to mount the panels on the West pitch of the roof facing south - in rows.
I need to figure out the optimum angle for the best over-all Southern exposure.  How low does the sun track in winter?  30*? 35*? - In the summer its pert near straight up.  These are going to be "fixed" in place.  So. . . should I split the difference between 30*-35* and 90* and go for 60*?  Or should I angle more to the horizon to get more winter exposure (45*or lower)?. . .

Thank you.

I am designing a 3KW, ‘24V’ off-grid solar project.  The way I see it, to float the batteries at the proper voltage (28.8VDC) I calculate the current to be roughly 105 amps at peak. 
The planned battery bank will be 1150AH.
Is this calculation close? 
What size MPPT charge controller do I need? . .
Can I bridge them together in parallel if need be? . .
Still trying to wrap my head around this. . .
Thank you.

What is the optimum angle to mount PV panels . . .? . . .

I am in the far North West US (Olympic Peninsula).  I have a flat roof install, its actually a peaked roof but the peak runs North/South, 3/12 pitch.  What is the optimum angle for the PV panels to get the most energy from summer to winter?. . .  How would I calculate that?. 
I figure to mount them all on the West slope, with X amount of space between rows to allow for the Southern most angle of the sun over the top of the first row to the bottom of the next row and so on. 
Thank you.

Hello. . .
 
I am researching a Grid Tie Solar system - no batteries.  I have selected the PV array - 24Vdc/2000Watt.  I can select a breaker panel for DC disconnects.  I think the Sunny Boy SB-2100 Inverter will work.
 
What else do I need?
 
What other equipment?
 
Where can I get a complete system diagram?
 
Thank you,
 
John

Ice free horse water in Northern Montana. . .

What about a little bit from both Earth and Sky?. . . I think John D. is on to something. . .

What if you could heat the water, just enough to keep it from freezing, using Geothermal, and circulate it through the tank using solar? . . .  just a thought. . .

Depending on the terrain, if you had enough fairly level ground you could lay out a simple Geothermal exchange system.  With a simple trencher you could lay out 150’ – 200’ of trench 4’ – 6’ deep (4” wide, just enough for the pipe…), 6’ apart in a connecting loop.
 ___      ___
|    |    |    |
|    |    |    |
|    |    |    |
|    |    |    |
|    ----___|
|   |

Using buriable PVC or CPVC 400+PSI 1/2' pipe connect it all up back to the tank - up, over and down into the tank bottem.  You would need a 12VDC circulating pump – I don’t have a lot of info on these from Solar resources but I wonder if something from a Marine application could be adapted?  I refurbished an older sail boat and did a LOT of 12V research.  There are lot of submersible and external 12VDC bilge pumps available in all sizes – what if one of these could be adapted?. . .

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/c/33000002/Bilge+Pumps.html

It wouldn’t take much, and it doesn’t have to lift the water once the system is flooded.  I wonder if there’s a timer that could cycle the pump during the night (50%/50%) to conserve batteries, and then run constant when there is sun. . .  so lets say the pump draws 3-4Amps. . .   you’d need 40+ Ah to run it during the off period, and enough PV panel to run and recharge . . .  I differ to the Solar experts to size all this.  I realize this is a DIY solution, and a lot depends on Andrea Christenot expertise. . .
 
(Extrapolated from Geothermal Heating – Popular Mechanics WEB page)
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/home_clinic/1274631.html?page=2
The soil below frost level – 4 ft. to 6 ft. deep – stores the sun's energy at a more or less constant level, with temperatures keyed to latitude.  Subsoil temperatures range from the low 40s in the North to the low 70s in the South.
For purposes of comparison, we'll use the 55 degrees F soil temperature common in much of the Midwest and Central Plains. This area of the country suffers some extreme temperatures, but also has a fair number of mild days, so it's a reasonable choice.

Thank you, David and James. . .
I did the same thing, evaluating what I could either convert, or was already compatible with DC.  For instance, using DC adaptation instead of AC transformers - using a car adapter for the cell phone, making a DC adapter for the network router and HUB, same thing for the laptop. 
When I wire in an AC socket in the kitchen counter area, I’ll use a 4-plex with a switch and single duplex socket – for the microwave or coffee maker – and switch it off when not in use – don’t need the ‘clock’ – try to eliminate as many ‘ghost’ drains as possible.
I think if I wire at least 1 DC tri-plex in each room that will be sufficient.  This is primarily in a 50X10 loft space in my shop – a 1-BdRm efficiency to live in while I’m building the house.  If I REALLY get to missing my electric conveniences I can get just about any kind of appliance from JC Whitney or a truck stop – lots of 12V toys. . .

I need to do more research on power distribution for this –
Does each panel require a separate breaker. . .
How does all this combine into the inverter and charger – I know how it does electrically, but I’m not sure where to put breakers – ins and outs. . .

More later. . .

Thank you, James.
I will research the Panels you suggested and get back to you.  Due to the limited Sun sightings here in the NW I'm figuring on over-engineering my system by 100%.  If I build a 2500Watt system I figure I'll average 50% (1250Watts).  I will be implementing as many conservative energy applications as possible - DC appliances & lights, 14VDC outlets alongside the 110VAC, Carosine lanterns from Aladdin Lamps, etc.
I'll be in touch. . .

James -
What do you think of the SunWize SW150 or SW160 24V Solar Panel?
Model Rated  Rated   Rated   Open    Short
      Power  Voltage Current Circuit Circuit 
     (Watts) (Vmp)   (Imp)   (Voc)   (Isc)   
SW150 150    33.4    4.50    42.0    5.11   
SW160 160    33.4    4.79    42.0    5.43   

MPPT Charge Controllers:
Are these charge controllers adjustable by default?  Let me give you a little more of my background. . .
I worked in telecommunication back in the 70's and 80's.  I worked "inside plant" - Central Office.  The phone systems work on DC, -48V.  They are all on batteries.  For example:
The rural locations I worked in employed a string of single-celled, 1100Ah batteries - 24-25 in a string.  Typically we used Lorain Flotrol rectifier/chargers.  A redundant pair, 100 Amp, that load share (hard wire sensing).  These rectifiers are totally adjustable to whatever the battery string needs to "Float".
A typical single cell is 2.2-2.3Vdc – so 24 wired in series = 52.8-55.2Vdc float voltage.
So when I’m talking 24V, I really mean 28.4 – 29.0 Vdc float.
I’m having a little trouble finding this granular of information on the MPPT controllers.  Do you know which ones are adjustable to this level of accuracy, and to achieve that output, what panel voltage do they need to be coupled with?

Thank you, John D.

I found this GenSet calculator (one of many) at the following link:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/guide/select_generator/

I am modeling my initial need from the specs on a 31’ Airstream I have access to.  It has a 110V/30A power system.  It has a 3Way power refer (12VDC/110VAC/LP Gas), a 6Gal electric water heater, a central LP gas forced air heating system, and a roof AC unite.  All this on a 30A main breaker.  I would reason that (winter operation) the refer, the central furnace and the water heater might come on and run at the same time.  By the same token, the AC unite would replace the Heater in summertime.  That’s where I came up with the 2500Watt calculation.  Just a modle now. . .
I work at home on the internet.  So I am calculating:
Constant:
•   Internet access router = 25-30 Watts
•   Laptop (typical) = 50 Watts

Occasional/mandatory: (24hr available)
•   Refrigerator = 700/2200 (run/start)
•   Deep Freeze = 700/2200 (run/start)
(I think these are a little high. . .)

Occasional:
•   Microwave = 600 Watt
•   Washing machine (front load) =
•   Dryer (gas) = 700/1800 (run/start)
•   Cistern pump = 800/1300 (run/start)

Misc. lights – florescent – 15W/ea (60W-light)

Its going to be tight – I’m trying to size for worst case – 6 hours/day charging and operation, to cover the 18hrs with no sun. . .  going to require a substantial battery bank. . .  The question is. . . can I recharge it in 6 hrs. . .

The cistern (water tower) anti-stagnate paddle was going to be a stand alone thing – 1500 gal tank on a 20’ water tower with a tiny, gear reduced 12V motor to slowly turn the paddle – 5-10RPM – I don’t think it has to run constantly so I was going to simply mount a set of panels on top of the tank – just run when the sun’s up. . .  The pump runs when the rain barrel float says “full”, then it pumps 50Gal up into the tower and shuts off.  Almost sounds like I need closer to 3Kw. . .

How’m I doin?. . .

Thank you, James.

The evergreen 170 – is that considered a 12V or 24V panel?

170-Watt PV Module  - 
Rated power: 170 watts  - 
Voltage (@ max. power): 25.3 volts  - 
Current (@ max. power): 6.72 Amps  - 
Open circuit voltage: 32.4 volts  - 
Short circuit current: 7.55 Amps  - 
LxWxD (inches): 61.8 x 37.5 x 1.6 (5’ X 3’)  - 
Weight: 40.1 lbs.  - 

If it’s a 24V/170W panel, it would be $765/ea (@ $4.50/Watt) – that would be about 14 panels – For a 48V/2200W array = 24 panels. . .  that’s like $11,000 – $22,000 (24V vs. 48V)             
Even though the 48V system may be more efficient to invert to 110, that’s twice the up-front cost in the array. . .  Need to do more research into my constant vs. occasional power needs. . .  Is there some place local to the Seattle, WA area I can go preview PV panels?

John B.  Thank you for your honesty.  I humbly admit I don’t know. . .   OK. . . sounds like the "Bargain Panels" may not be the way to go.  I will have plenty of space to mount panels on the Southern roof line.  Is my thought of “the higher the DC voltage to invert, the more efficient” on track?  (48V vs. 24V or 12V).

Thank you.

Off-Grid Solar Project

Harbor Freight – Part# 90599
Maximum current, 3000 mA.
15 watts max per panel.
Peak voltage: 23.57 volts open current.
Panel dimensions: 12.40'' x 36.42'' x 0.75''; Weight: 9.7 lbs.
Kit includes a
•   regulator with battery connections for charging and maintaining a battery(1+)
•   regulator has 3, 6, 9, 12 VDC outputs

I am building an Off-Grid remote site.  After considering the cost of commercial utilities for power, water, I decided the same, and even lesser cost, of going off-grid would be a wiser investment (and GREENER ).  I need to design and build from the top down, as it were.

I am finding the average cost for the panels them selves seem to be in the range of $6+/watt.  I also found that the panels had a lifespan (? ? ?) of maybe 20 years (is that correct???)

Then I stumbled on this 45watt kit from Harbor Freight –
Retail sale price is $250.  It occasionally goes on sale for under $200.  I am considering negotiating with them to get a bulk discount – maybe go straight to the manufacturer.  I just want the panels. . .  If I can get them for say $50/each or $150/kit (or LESS…), then a ‘24VDC’ array, with about 2200Watts would equal 100 12volt kits???. . . (about $3-$4/Watt. . .)

I figure the panels can be connected in series/parallel to produce whatever array configuration I desire.  I am reasoning that the higher the voltage (48-56 VDC vs. 12-14VDC) will be more efficient to ‘Invert’ to 110/220VAC.  Any specific advice would be greatly appreciated on this initial theory . . . .

My power needs would be:
•   Computer/network power – 7X24
•   Refrigeration – a residential refer and chest deepfreeze – (on demand with high IPP – compressors. . . cant get around it. . .)
•   LP gas water heater – electronic ignition (pilot less)
•   High efficiency front-load washer/LP gas dryer – electronic ignition (pilot less)
•   Lighting – Florescent, LED.
•   LP gas range - electronic ignition (pilot less)
•   Microwave oven
•   Cistern Water storage – electric paddle to circulate water in a 1500 gallon storage tank (something about keeping it from stagnating)
•   Air compressor – for shop tools

I would also have a 5500Watt gas/diesel GenSet.  Wood/coal/pellet/junk mail stove for primary heat.

So what I need to confirm is:
•   Wire size – AWG to run to the panels – 8AWG?. . . 6AWG? To run from the PV array back to the Charge Controller – 100’ for discussion.
•   Wire type – Copper? Aluminum?  Each has a calculable voltage drop/loss back to the Charge Controller (MPPT) – overhead/ buriable NEC spec.
•   Charge Controller – MPPT vs. PWM – MPPT makes more sense – they seem to be available in specific input/output configurations. . . (12, 24, 48VDC)
•   Battery configuration – that I think I have – 12, 24, 48 – each manufacturer has specifications on the float voltage.  I figure I can use Deep Cycle batteries from Wal-Mart (12V 115 ampere hour) – cost around $60/ea.  May be able to negotiate that down for a bulk order. . .
•   Inverter – I am hoping to find something that has a 220VAC output that would match what  commercially connects to the residential main panel – 2 110’s 180* out of phase, with a neutral return.   Would like something which only draws from the DC side when there is an AC demand – doesn’t idle?. . . If 110 is more cost efficient, I can simply bridge the breaker panel.

What am I forgetting. . .?. . .

Any and all comments, suggestions, recommendation are greatly appreciated.

Thank you.