It kinda tuff to say for sure without knowing which charge controller you are referring to. If it has more than one set of positive and negative PV input terminals. Sometimes, single terminals can legally (NEC) accept two wires. In parallel each PV modules wire should be fused on the positive side, in series there is only one positve to fuse. Then they can be combined by way of a combiner block or maybe even DIN rail terminals with factory jumpers. This allows you to take one bigger wire to the charge controller. The same is done with the negative wire but the fuse is not necessary. Just make sure of the electrical ratings of what ever you use. (I have grown accustom to looking at electrical ratings of everything I see. Its become a habit of mine.)
http://www.curtisind.com/products/din/dinhome.aspAutomotive type fuses can work, just be sure that the voltage ratings are compatible with the open circuit voltages of the PV module. Note that, where as fuses and breakers add a degree of protection for a device, their primary purpose is to protect you and your home, or whatever, from fire. If, for example, a wire is sized to small for its amp load and its not fused correctly, the wire will get hot. Sometimes hot enough to set its insulation and anything else near it on fire. Loose wires on a terminal after the fuse can get hot, even the negatives.
The NEC National Electrical Code is an institution of the NFPA National Fire Protection Agency. You might have seen this acronym NFPA on such things as fire extinguishers.
http://www.nfpa.org/It might seem like I am excessing (is that a word?) about this but we are on a public forum afterall.
Thats enough about that. I take it you have the GSE 6 watt PV module?
Rated amps 0.38
Rated volts 15.8
Open circuit volts 23
short circuit amps 0.45
When sizing wire use the short circuit ratings of a PV module and add 156%. That makes 0.70 amps. Then you can go on to the line loss calculations, but I gather that all your lines will be short?
