Solaroll water heater

4 Posts
Jan 22, 2008 12:50 pm
Solaroll water heater

I have and old Solaroll rubber mat solar water heater with copper manifold.  It has worked wonderfully for 28 years but now has begun to leak at the manifold connections.  Are there any suggestions as to how to remake the connections? (I have tried) Is this product still around?

Thanks,
Sam Avery
 
462 Posts
Jan 25, 2008 11:25 am
Re: Solaroll water heater

Sam, there are several ways to repair the panel if the manifold is copper. If the hole is large or blown out from freezing, you can cut out the problem and replace the tee and pipe using slip couplings. If the holes are just leaks or small pinholes, you can just clean the area very well down to the bare copper, then solder over the hole. (You can do this with large holes too if you can solder well.)
  If the rest of the unit is rubber or plastic, be sure to disconnect the manifold first, if possible, or cover it with a very wet rag to protect it from the heat from your torch. 
 Or lastly, clean the affected area and use some type of epoxy.
 
 
163 Posts
Jan 25, 2008 12:08 pm
Re: Solaroll water heater

3M 5200 marine sealant is good. I've never tried it with any hot water systems but it works great anywhere that I have ever used it, and 3M claims it will work in temperatures from -40F to 190F.
 
4 Posts
Jan 25, 2008 05:53 pm
Re: Solaroll water heater

Thanks John

The problem is not in the copper but where the rubber tubes enter the copper manifold.  There are some little plastic inserts which seem to have gotten distorted.  I will try epoxy or marine sealant.  This is a good idea: I appreciate it.

Sam
 
4 Posts
Jan 25, 2008 05:56 pm
Re: Solaroll water heater

Thanks, Tom

I will try the marine sealant or epoxy.  Either should work.  I appreciate the tip.

Sam
 
462 Posts
Jan 27, 2008 10:34 am
Re: Solaroll water heater

Sam, if the epoxy doesn't hold. Since those panels have many tubes, you can just eliminate the tube that leaks. Just cut it and seal the end, either with a plug and hose clamp or melt it together, and then seal the opening for it at the header/s the same way, (you may be able to solder the header end/s closed). 
 

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