Help for newbe?

Not to add carbon emitting greenhouse gas producing gas onto the fire, but I have to agree with Mr. Ken on this one. He may have come across as cross (not to me mind you) but his words ring true.
Having an idea of what you want to power during a power out, and for how long is important. Not essential but important. I did it the other way and its working out just fine. However, i do not intend on releying on it for power outages. Mine is just experimentation, learning, and lots of fun (if not slightly dangerous!).
For you, it sounds like powering the beer fridge and the TV (the essentials)is key. Having an idea of the above will really help. First and foremost for me would be those batteries. Auto batteries (yes, even the deep cycle marine ones) are designed for cold cranking amps, with a dept of discharge in the neighborhood of 3-5%. Solar batteries are the ones that will work better. They are designed to be discharged to, say, 60 or as low as 50%. So when Ken says you may end up smoking them, he's probably right. Car Barteries will still work, but you may want to really oversize things on the batt side.
Either way, like ken said, good luck! -m

Oh! I think I get it now. The mention of an "off grid system" threw me. So, the immediate plan is; the 800 watt PV array will be on the roof of the garage. The 200 amp hour? batteries will be on-board the RV with the 2000 watt inverter and during times of black out, a "drop cord?" will supply 120 vac power to a load in the home from the 2000 watt inverter on board the RV and you want to know where the best place for the charge controller and combiner box would be. 
Then eventually you will add more batteries (to the RV?) and more PV modules to the array on the garage.

(A battery monitor such as the Bogart 2020 is still a good idea to give you an interface with the system.)
Personally, I don't like the idea of having all those cords going to and from the RV and house. Its do-able but what you describe is really mis-matched taboot. Movable and non movable power sources and loads, inside and outside, 200 amp hour battery, 2000 watt inverter, 800 watt PV array, anyway.
If I had to do this, there was no other choice, I would set the combiner box and charge controller and monitor on the outside garage wall as near the to PV array as possible making sure its all Nema 4X and I would use GFP. I'd hard wire in conduit under ground from there to a box above ground near the RV, close to where the batteries are inside, and put a recessed male plug on both the RV and the box, both with in use covers and all of ample amperage ratings. I would make a cord with females on both ends to fit. This is because the batteries are "on" all the time and the PV array should be considered as "on" all the time. I would also want to be able to lock in and lock out everything so curious fingers can't find their way to live terminals. Essentially the same power transfer set up with the vac power minus the controller and all of course.  Whats going to happen with the PV power when the RV is logging milage? What would an electrical inspector have to say about it all? I guess there is no place to mount the PV array on the roof of the RV? Whats going to happen if the vdc cord is not removed and the RV drives off?